Sewing Thread Weight ~ What’s That?

Last week I did a post about sewing machine needles, so this week we’re talking about sewing thread weight. Specifically thread you may encounter when shopping for thread for your sewing machine. I’ll be talking about different ones I have on hand & what I use them for. There is a video that goes along with this as well & it will be linked at the bottom of the post.

In the video, I said that 40wt was fairly standard for the threads you find in the store. While Coats & Clark’s common threads run between 35wt & 40wt, the Gutermann & Aurifil threads I showed in the video were a 50wt. I wanted to make that correction here, since I can’t change the video now!

Sewing Thread Weight

Most spools of thread do not even show what the thread weight is, which can be really frustrating. Usually you will have to look it up on the manufacturers website. Thread weight works the opposite of needle sizes. The higher the number, the finer the thread is. So, a 12wt thread is much thicker than a 40wt thread.

Your thread should match the size of your needle. The groove in the front of the needle is designed to protect your thread as it’s pushed through the fabric. If you’re having troubles with thread shredding, trying going up a needle size or down a thread weight. I will be linking to sources for the different threads shown below, so you can find out more about them.

Coats & Clark Threads

Coats & Clark is probably on nearly every sewists shelf! It’s readily available at most big box stores & comes in a wide variety of colors. Below is the every popular & useful all purpose thread…

This thread is 100% polyester & can be used for most anything you want to sew. It does have a slight fuzz or halo to it, so it’s not as smooth as other threads. I use all purpose thread mostly for sewing seams because the thread is not seen from the outside. I don’t like using it for topstitching because of the fuzz.

Dual Duty Plus

I use this when repairing my husband’s jeans or sewing with denim. Both are a poly/cotton blend, higher on the polyester side. The gold topstitching thread is a heavier weight that the denim thread to help the stitches pop out on the garment. It’s made to be more durable & hold up to sewing heavier fabrics.

Hand Sewing Thread

You may have seen hand sewing thread in the store & may have even tried to use it in your sewing machine. This thread has a glacé finish on it which helps it glide through the fabric & have less tangles while hand sewing. This thread is not made for your sewing machine! If you’ve ever used wax to help with hand sewing, this is like pre-coated thread. There are some threads with a glacé finish that are made for the sewing machine. They are intended for sewing leather & faux furs.

Embroidery Thread

Embroidery thread is made to be compatible with embroidery machines. It’s a stronger polyester that will work with all the back & forth that happens during embroidery. I don’t have an embroidery machine, but this thread is also great when working with formal wear fabrics like satin. I also use it when sewing slinky fabrics for garments & I have used it for quilting. It has a nice sheen to it which makes things a little more fancy! : D

Last on the list is an older spool of Coats & Clark I picked up while thrifting. I’ve found that these older threads are usually thicker than today’s standard threads. Most of the ones I’ve found are cotton, but not all of them are. I do use these threads, but with some precautions.

I will remove the outer layer if it’s coated in dust and/or debris to check the inner thread. Then I’ll do a pull test to see how easily it breaks. Older threads can be brittle & it really depends on how they were stored. If it doesn’t appear brittle, I will run it through my machine for some test stitching. If the thread breaks while sewing, it will be kept for decoration. : )

I found this “thread advisor brochure” for Coats & Clark after some looking. It gives all the different threads they make, information about the threads, and a chart for thread & needle sizes. Something handy to have around & I spotted some new threads I’d like to try! : )

Gutermann & Aurifil Thread

Gutermann is one of my favorite threads to sew with! It is a little thinner than the standard Coats & Clark at a 50wt. Both the cotton & polyester are great for bag sewing when using heavier weight fabrics. The polyester is my go to for topstitching on my bags. I like to use the cotton for quilting when I want a more matte finish to my quilting.

I have used the silk thread for hand sewing as well as topstitching. It’s a heavy weight at 30wt & one of the smoothest, softest threads I’ve found! The centers of the smaller thread spools are removable & some people use them to store needles.

Aurifil thread is one of the favorites among quilters because it is one of the smoothest 100% cottons around. It’s made with Mako cotton that’s grown in Egypt & prized for it’s longer fiber length. The dust on this spool is from it sitting in the open in my sewing room. I bought it to quilt my son’s mostly black fabric quilt & wound up with a lot left over! Black is not a thread color I use very much.

I use this thread for quilting, but it is also wonderful for piecing since it’s a 50wt thread. It gives you a flatter seam than your general sewing thread. The price point sometimes keeps me from using it for anything other than quilting. : )

Here’s links to a Guterman Thread Brochure & Aurifil Thread Guide for more information about the thread types & weights.

Special Threads

These are some threads you may or may not have in your sewing arsenal. The first two are serger cones, which aren’t really that special. They are just usually used with a serger & not a sewing machine. Many thread manufacturers have larger cones of their common threads. These can be used with a home sewing machine with some adjustments. You can buy a stand made for this, put the spool in a cup, or even use this get up shown on Thrifty Fun.

Something to remember, however, is that serger thread is generally a lighter weight than standard sewing thread because a serger uses multiple threads to make a seam. This could cause problems with seams not being as secure. It’s best to make sure the cone is for standard sewing rather than a serger when using it with a home sewing machine

The two threads below, elastic & metallic thread, I have very little experience with.

Elastic thread is a stretchy thread used to create shirring, mostly in garments. It’s supposed to go in the bobbin with all purpose thread in the needle. This can help make non-stretchy fabric stretchy. I’ve yet to try this out & I’m not too sure about the quality of this elastic thread. It was in the box of sewing machine needles I picked up at the crafty estate sale!

Metallic thread is made for embroidery & decorative stitching. It’s not something you want to use for seams because it breaks & frays too easily. You also have to be sure to use a metallic needle & set up your machine to sew with metallic thread. This tutorial from See Kate Sew looks like it has some great tips for sewing with metallic thread. I’ve only used this for hand sewing, so I have no tips to offer!

Threads to Try

The threads I’ve shared above are certainly not all of the thread types or brands available. I came across some threads I’d like to try during my research & thought I’d share them with you. Maybe you’ve tried them & can share your thoughts on them in the comments!

• Coats & Clark Machine Quilt Cotton Thread – I didn’t realize Coats & Clark made a mercerized 100% Egyptian cotton thread! I saw it in the brochure I downloaded & wonder how it will compare to the Aurifil & Gutermann. It is 30wt, so much heavier than those two. I did find it on the JoAnn’s website {in store & online} – how did I miss this??
• Sulky Threads – This is a brand of thread I have 1 spool of in rayon. I usually think of the dissolving stabilizer I use for embroidery when I think of Sulky. They have a whole line of threads & I’d really like to try their cotton, which is also a 30wt. The brightly colored Cotton + Steel thread is also produced by Sulky.

So, those are just a few on my list to try out. Have any of y’all tried these threads? I’d love to hear about them in the comments! The video that goes along with this is below. Hope y’all are having a great week!

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